Homemade Laundry Detergent

This post was originally posted on my own blog, and I have made this several times. I am very pleased with how well it works, and thought I would share. If you are interested in making a liquid/gel version, be sure to check out the original and follow-up posts over at Simple Dollar (links found in the next paragraph).

Several months ago, I came across a post by Trent at Simple Dollar about his experiment of making homemade laundry detergent. It is one of his most popular posts ever, with over 500 comments, and he has written a follow-up post with 240 comments that is complete with pictures and detailed instructions.

I decided I didn't want to make a 5 gallon bucket's worth of laundry detergent because I don't have a place to store it. Also, I was curious as to how well it would work. So, I read all of the comments (yes, all 520 of them), and came up with a powdered version that I store in a 6 qt. container that I already had on hand. I was so please with the results that this morning I made a double batch that fits in the container just perfectly.

Having gone through a whole batch, I can tell you that I really like it. Not only is it cheaper than store bought detergent (even with a sale and coupon), but there are specific things I like such as a) my clothes don't smell like anything! This is great, especially with our allergies. I don't have this need to smell like a Mountain Meadow or a Lilac Breeze. And to me, not smelling like anything smells clean. Now, if I really wanted a scent, then I could easily add a drop - two at the most - of an essential oil to the water right after I add the detergent and before I add the clothes. b) it works well, just as well in my opinion as any store bought detergent. For typical loads, I use 2 heaping tablespoons, but if I am washing anything muddy or unusually dirty, I use 3 heaping tablespoons. That's it! c) I know exactly what is in it. This isn't a huge deal to me, but I do take comfort in knowing that I know the ingredients. It does bug me just a little bit that manufacturers don't tell you want is in there cleaning products. d) Price: so here's the break down. I can't get an exact estimate on how much it costs me to make because I already had the Zote bar soap on hand, as well as a HUGE tub of baking soda. However, since neither of these ingredient are necessary (you can use just about any bar of soap. Trent at Simple Dollar uses whatever cheap soap he has on hand. Lots of people recommend Ivory, especially if sensitive skin is an issue, and you can leave out the baking soda if you want, though I do like it), I didn't worry too much about them. I figure it is about $5 for a double batch, which is enough to wash 120 large loads of laundry. This makes it about $0.042 per load. I can usually get a 32 load container of Purex for $1.99 with a sale and coupon. This makes it $0.0625 per load. However, that is for regular loads of laundry. The last time I did a regular sized load of laundry was probably when I was away at college. In my experience, I only get about 25 loads out of the 32 load bottle. That makes Purex $0.08 per load.

A couple of notes: According to what I have read, the soaps that seem to work best are any type of "laundry bar soap" such as Zote (which you can get at the $0.99 Store - I bought mine at Target a few years ago because it is awesome for getting stains out) or Ivory. Also, you don't have to include the baking soda, but I do because it deodorizes the clothes, and also seems to help with our very, very hard Arizona water. Because we do have such hard water, I use vinegar in a Downy ball. This helps all of the soap rinse out of the clothes so that your whites don't get dingy. Also, it acts as a fabric softer so I don't have to use a dryer sheet or liquid fabric softener. I was skeptical when I first read this tip, but it really works that there is no lingering vinegar smell at all. I use my Grater attachment for my Bosch to grate the soap. You can do it on the small holes of a box grater, but it's kind of hard.

I get the Borax at Target, and the Washing Soda at Fry's Marketplace (though I have heard that Basha's may also carry it).

Laundry Detergent
(powdered version - about 60 large loads)

3 C. Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (exactly half of a 55 oz. box)
3 C. Mule Team Borax
1 1/2 C. Baking Soda
1 (14 oz.) Bar Zote Laundry Bar Soap, finely grated

Mix everything well in a large container with a lid.

Use 2 heaping tablespoons for a large load - 3 tablespoons if the clothes are really soiled. Start the washer on hot, add the detergent, and let it dissolve for 2 or 3 seconds. Change water temperature to cold (or desired setting). Fill a Downy Ball to the top line (x-large line) with vinegar and add it to the wash on top of the clothes.

You can add a drop or two of essential oil to the water after adding the soap, before adding the clothes if you want a light scent.

Water: Final Thoughts

Water is important. It can be a little daunting to begin storing water, but you need to start somewhere. Here are two more suggestions for water storage that I have not used, but they may work for your family and situation. As always, if you have questions or need help with any aspect of food storage, please contact Rebecca Wilcox, or a member of the Canning Committee.

1) Refill sturdy, plastic containers that once held a drinkable liquid with water . It is very important that the containers are both a) sturdy (don't reuse milk jugs or wimpy juice containers) with a good lid and b) held a liquid that was meant to be drunk. The containers I have seen used most often are two-liter soda pop bottles. Make sure to rotate these frequently. For more information, visit providentliving.org.

2) Freeze water. If your freezer is not very full (a category I definitely don't fit into!), then filling containers with water and placing them in your freezer will not only help your freezer run more efficiently, but that water can be part of your water storage. Again, make sure to rotate.

As always, if you have questions or need help with any aspect of food storage, please contact Rebecca Wilcox, or a member of the Canning Committee.

Water - Parts 3 & 4

You can read the other pieces of this Water Storage Series here and here.

We rotate our longer-term supply of water about every six months. There are two components to it, comprising the third and fourth aspects of our water storage plan. First, we store water in 5-gallon, heavy-duty, square, very thick, blue containers. They are composed of the same material that the big blue 55-gallon drums are. At the same time that I bought the containers, I bought a spigot that fits into the cap so that if necessary, we could use the containers as-is instead of needing to transfer the water to something else in order to be able to fill up a cup. For simply rotating, I don't use the spigot because once you put it into the cap, you will need to get a new cap when you refill the container.

As part of our longer-term water supply, we also have a big, blue, 55-gallon drum. We store it up on a pallet on our back porch. In order to get water out of it, it is necessary to have a siphon. I hope to never have to drink the water in it, but we could if we had to. I store it to use for other water needs such as doing dishes, laundry, and flushing toilets.

It is important to remember to rotate your longer-term supply of water regularly. We rotate ours on General Conference weekends because it is easy to remember. You can also rotate in January and July, or any six-month interval that works for you.

Up next week: other ideas for storing water.