We are headed into a very busy time of year. This also happens to be a great time to stock up on a lot of things for food storage. Many stores are running sales on canned vegetables (Fry's for $0.33 this week!), evaporated milk (also on sale at Fry's), flour (Albertson's & Basha's for $0.99), and many other items that store well. I personally adore brown sugar, and store it in my large freezer to keep it soft. This is the time of year to buy it because in a couple of weeks, it should be fairly inexpensive.
So no matter how busy you are, you still have to eat, and most likely grocery shop. When you do, at least glance at the ads that are next to the grocery store doors when you go in, and see if there is an item or two you can buy to add to your food storage. This is a good thing to do all year, but right now it might be the only thing you can do for food storage...but at least it is something, and keeps you moving in your food storage journey!
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Noticing the "Best By" Date
One of the best ways to get the most food storage bang for your buck is to notice details. If you have invested the time to shop the sales, it is a real tragedy to buy a bunch of an item and then realize as you are putting away that it will expire three months later. Or maybe you won't even notice the date on it until you go to get it out, and it has changed color and just doesn't look right. Most canned food doesn't have an "expiration" date, but rather a "best by" date. Instead of this date being a hard and fast rule, it is a guideline. Your spaghetti sauce will probably still be good a month after its best by date (provided it looks and smells right - when in doubt, throw it out!), but how frustrating it is to have 20 bottles of spaghetti sauce all right at their best by date. The easiest way I have found to handle this issue is to take a couple of seconds at the store and check the best by date. If I'm not happy with it, I will check another flavor or variety. Often by just taking a couple of seconds, I can find a product with a best by date that suits my needs.
And as always, make sure you are rotating your food storage!
And as always, make sure you are rotating your food storage!
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Homemade Laundry Detergent
This post was originally posted on my own blog, and I have made this several times. I am very pleased with how well it works, and thought I would share. If you are interested in making a liquid/gel version, be sure to check out the original and follow-up posts over at Simple Dollar (links found in the next paragraph).
Several months ago, I came across a post by Trent at Simple Dollar about his experiment of making homemade laundry detergent. It is one of his most popular posts ever, with over 500 comments, and he has written a follow-up post with 240 comments that is complete with pictures and detailed instructions.
I decided I didn't want to make a 5 gallon bucket's worth of laundry detergent because I don't have a place to store it. Also, I was curious as to how well it would work. So, I read all of the comments (yes, all 520 of them), and came up with a powdered version that I store in a 6 qt. container that I already had on hand. I was so please with the results that this morning I made a double batch that fits in the container just perfectly.
Having gone through a whole batch, I can tell you that I really like it. Not only is it cheaper than store bought detergent (even with a sale and coupon), but there are specific things I like such as a) my clothes don't smell like anything! This is great, especially with our allergies. I don't have this need to smell like a Mountain Meadow or a Lilac Breeze. And to me, not smelling like anything smells clean. Now, if I really wanted a scent, then I could easily add a drop - two at the most - of an essential oil to the water right after I add the detergent and before I add the clothes. b) it works well, just as well in my opinion as any store bought detergent. For typical loads, I use 2 heaping tablespoons, but if I am washing anything muddy or unusually dirty, I use 3 heaping tablespoons. That's it! c) I know exactly what is in it. This isn't a huge deal to me, but I do take comfort in knowing that I know the ingredients. It does bug me just a little bit that manufacturers don't tell you want is in there cleaning products. d) Price: so here's the break down. I can't get an exact estimate on how much it costs me to make because I already had the Zote bar soap on hand, as well as a HUGE tub of baking soda. However, since neither of these ingredient are necessary (you can use just about any bar of soap. Trent at Simple Dollar uses whatever cheap soap he has on hand. Lots of people recommend Ivory, especially if sensitive skin is an issue, and you can leave out the baking soda if you want, though I do like it), I didn't worry too much about them. I figure it is about $5 for a double batch, which is enough to wash 120 large loads of laundry. This makes it about $0.042 per load. I can usually get a 32 load container of Purex for $1.99 with a sale and coupon. This makes it $0.0625 per load. However, that is for regular loads of laundry. The last time I did a regular sized load of laundry was probably when I was away at college. In my experience, I only get about 25 loads out of the 32 load bottle. That makes Purex $0.08 per load.
A couple of notes: According to what I have read, the soaps that seem to work best are any type of "laundry bar soap" such as Zote (which you can get at the $0.99 Store - I bought mine at Target a few years ago because it is awesome for getting stains out) or Ivory. Also, you don't have to include the baking soda, but I do because it deodorizes the clothes, and also seems to help with our very, very hard Arizona water. Because we do have such hard water, I use vinegar in a Downy ball. This helps all of the soap rinse out of the clothes so that your whites don't get dingy. Also, it acts as a fabric softer so I don't have to use a dryer sheet or liquid fabric softener. I was skeptical when I first read this tip, but it really works that there is no lingering vinegar smell at all. I use my Grater attachment for my Bosch to grate the soap. You can do it on the small holes of a box grater, but it's kind of hard.
I get the Borax at Target, and the Washing Soda at Fry's Marketplace (though I have heard that Basha's may also carry it).
Laundry Detergent
(powdered version - about 60 large loads)
3 C. Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (exactly half of a 55 oz. box)
3 C. Mule Team Borax
1 1/2 C. Baking Soda
1 (14 oz.) Bar Zote Laundry Bar Soap, finely grated
Mix everything well in a large container with a lid.
Use 2 heaping tablespoons for a large load - 3 tablespoons if the clothes are really soiled. Start the washer on hot, add the detergent, and let it dissolve for 2 or 3 seconds. Change water temperature to cold (or desired setting). Fill a Downy Ball to the top line (x-large line) with vinegar and add it to the wash on top of the clothes.
You can add a drop or two of essential oil to the water after adding the soap, before adding the clothes if you want a light scent.
Several months ago, I came across a post by Trent at Simple Dollar about his experiment of making homemade laundry detergent. It is one of his most popular posts ever, with over 500 comments, and he has written a follow-up post with 240 comments that is complete with pictures and detailed instructions.
I decided I didn't want to make a 5 gallon bucket's worth of laundry detergent because I don't have a place to store it. Also, I was curious as to how well it would work. So, I read all of the comments (yes, all 520 of them), and came up with a powdered version that I store in a 6 qt. container that I already had on hand. I was so please with the results that this morning I made a double batch that fits in the container just perfectly.
Having gone through a whole batch, I can tell you that I really like it. Not only is it cheaper than store bought detergent (even with a sale and coupon), but there are specific things I like such as a) my clothes don't smell like anything! This is great, especially with our allergies. I don't have this need to smell like a Mountain Meadow or a Lilac Breeze. And to me, not smelling like anything smells clean. Now, if I really wanted a scent, then I could easily add a drop - two at the most - of an essential oil to the water right after I add the detergent and before I add the clothes. b) it works well, just as well in my opinion as any store bought detergent. For typical loads, I use 2 heaping tablespoons, but if I am washing anything muddy or unusually dirty, I use 3 heaping tablespoons. That's it! c) I know exactly what is in it. This isn't a huge deal to me, but I do take comfort in knowing that I know the ingredients. It does bug me just a little bit that manufacturers don't tell you want is in there cleaning products. d) Price: so here's the break down. I can't get an exact estimate on how much it costs me to make because I already had the Zote bar soap on hand, as well as a HUGE tub of baking soda. However, since neither of these ingredient are necessary (you can use just about any bar of soap. Trent at Simple Dollar uses whatever cheap soap he has on hand. Lots of people recommend Ivory, especially if sensitive skin is an issue, and you can leave out the baking soda if you want, though I do like it), I didn't worry too much about them. I figure it is about $5 for a double batch, which is enough to wash 120 large loads of laundry. This makes it about $0.042 per load. I can usually get a 32 load container of Purex for $1.99 with a sale and coupon. This makes it $0.0625 per load. However, that is for regular loads of laundry. The last time I did a regular sized load of laundry was probably when I was away at college. In my experience, I only get about 25 loads out of the 32 load bottle. That makes Purex $0.08 per load.
A couple of notes: According to what I have read, the soaps that seem to work best are any type of "laundry bar soap" such as Zote (which you can get at the $0.99 Store - I bought mine at Target a few years ago because it is awesome for getting stains out) or Ivory. Also, you don't have to include the baking soda, but I do because it deodorizes the clothes, and also seems to help with our very, very hard Arizona water. Because we do have such hard water, I use vinegar in a Downy ball. This helps all of the soap rinse out of the clothes so that your whites don't get dingy. Also, it acts as a fabric softer so I don't have to use a dryer sheet or liquid fabric softener. I was skeptical when I first read this tip, but it really works that there is no lingering vinegar smell at all. I use my Grater attachment for my Bosch to grate the soap. You can do it on the small holes of a box grater, but it's kind of hard.
I get the Borax at Target, and the Washing Soda at Fry's Marketplace (though I have heard that Basha's may also carry it).
Laundry Detergent
(powdered version - about 60 large loads)
3 C. Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (exactly half of a 55 oz. box)
3 C. Mule Team Borax
1 1/2 C. Baking Soda
1 (14 oz.) Bar Zote Laundry Bar Soap, finely grated
Mix everything well in a large container with a lid.
Use 2 heaping tablespoons for a large load - 3 tablespoons if the clothes are really soiled. Start the washer on hot, add the detergent, and let it dissolve for 2 or 3 seconds. Change water temperature to cold (or desired setting). Fill a Downy Ball to the top line (x-large line) with vinegar and add it to the wash on top of the clothes.
You can add a drop or two of essential oil to the water after adding the soap, before adding the clothes if you want a light scent.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Water: Final Thoughts
Water is important. It can be a little daunting to begin storing water, but you need to start somewhere. Here are two more suggestions for water storage that I have not used, but they may work for your family and situation. As always, if you have questions or need help with any aspect of food storage, please contact Rebecca Wilcox, or a member of the Canning Committee.
1) Refill sturdy, plastic containers that once held a drinkable liquid with water . It is very important that the containers are both a) sturdy (don't reuse milk jugs or wimpy juice containers) with a good lid and b) held a liquid that was meant to be drunk. The containers I have seen used most often are two-liter soda pop bottles. Make sure to rotate these frequently. For more information, visit providentliving.org.
2) Freeze water. If your freezer is not very full (a category I definitely don't fit into!), then filling containers with water and placing them in your freezer will not only help your freezer run more efficiently, but that water can be part of your water storage. Again, make sure to rotate.
As always, if you have questions or need help with any aspect of food storage, please contact Rebecca Wilcox, or a member of the Canning Committee.
1) Refill sturdy, plastic containers that once held a drinkable liquid with water . It is very important that the containers are both a) sturdy (don't reuse milk jugs or wimpy juice containers) with a good lid and b) held a liquid that was meant to be drunk. The containers I have seen used most often are two-liter soda pop bottles. Make sure to rotate these frequently. For more information, visit providentliving.org.
2) Freeze water. If your freezer is not very full (a category I definitely don't fit into!), then filling containers with water and placing them in your freezer will not only help your freezer run more efficiently, but that water can be part of your water storage. Again, make sure to rotate.
As always, if you have questions or need help with any aspect of food storage, please contact Rebecca Wilcox, or a member of the Canning Committee.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Water - Parts 3 & 4
You can read the other pieces of this Water Storage Series here and here.
We rotate our longer-term supply of water about every six months. There are two components to it, comprising the third and fourth aspects of our water storage plan. First, we store water in 5-gallon, heavy-duty, square, very thick, blue containers. They are composed of the same material that the big blue 55-gallon drums are. At the same time that I bought the containers, I bought a spigot that fits into the cap so that if necessary, we could use the containers as-is instead of needing to transfer the water to something else in order to be able to fill up a cup. For simply rotating, I don't use the spigot because once you put it into the cap, you will need to get a new cap when you refill the container.
As part of our longer-term water supply, we also have a big, blue, 55-gallon drum. We store it up on a pallet on our back porch. In order to get water out of it, it is necessary to have a siphon. I hope to never have to drink the water in it, but we could if we had to. I store it to use for other water needs such as doing dishes, laundry, and flushing toilets.
It is important to remember to rotate your longer-term supply of water regularly. We rotate ours on General Conference weekends because it is easy to remember. You can also rotate in January and July, or any six-month interval that works for you.
Up next week: other ideas for storing water.
We rotate our longer-term supply of water about every six months. There are two components to it, comprising the third and fourth aspects of our water storage plan. First, we store water in 5-gallon, heavy-duty, square, very thick, blue containers. They are composed of the same material that the big blue 55-gallon drums are. At the same time that I bought the containers, I bought a spigot that fits into the cap so that if necessary, we could use the containers as-is instead of needing to transfer the water to something else in order to be able to fill up a cup. For simply rotating, I don't use the spigot because once you put it into the cap, you will need to get a new cap when you refill the container.
As part of our longer-term water supply, we also have a big, blue, 55-gallon drum. We store it up on a pallet on our back porch. In order to get water out of it, it is necessary to have a siphon. I hope to never have to drink the water in it, but we could if we had to. I store it to use for other water needs such as doing dishes, laundry, and flushing toilets.
It is important to remember to rotate your longer-term supply of water regularly. We rotate ours on General Conference weekends because it is easy to remember. You can also rotate in January and July, or any six-month interval that works for you.
Up next week: other ideas for storing water.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Water - Part 2
Today is the second in a series about water. You can find the first part here.
As I mentioned last week, the first part of my water storage is cases of bottled water. Because these bottles are typically made of thinner plastic, we rotate them frequently.
The second part of my master water plan is 3-gallon heavy duty bottles. These are the types of bottles that you would expect to use in a water cooler (however, we don't). They are thick, sturdy plastic with a white cap. I have purchased them from both a Water & Ice type store, and I have found them at Basha's. I originally chose 3-gallon bottles as opposed to 5-gallon bottles because I can heft and handle one of these bottles. The 5-gallon bottles, however, are too unwieldy for me to handle comfortably.
We currently have 12 of these bottles that we rotate through. Whenever we get down to only having about half of them fully, Johnny will go to a water place and fill the empty ones up. You could easily use tap water to fill them up, too. To facilitate rotation, we keep a container in our refrigerator that has a spigot, and fill it up as needed using these 3-gallon bottles. Right now, because it is so hot outside, we are filling up the container nearly each evening, which equates to rotating our entire supply approximately every two weeks.
The two biggest challenges I have encountered with this part of our water storage is first, where to store the bottles, and second, keeping track of when they were filled. Both were easily solved. We store our bottles in the laundry room. When Johnny built me a wonderful set of shelves last year, I specifically designed them to be tall enough that two cases of bottle water will stack on top of each other underneath the bottom shelf. This is also the perfect height for the bottles. That solved our "where to put them" problem. As far as dating them, you can use a crayon to write the date on the white plastic cap. When you use that bottle, wipe the date off using a Magic Eraser sponge.
Next week, I'll write about the two parts of my water storage that deal with storing water for 6-months at a time. If you have any ideas or suggestions on what has worked for your families, please share them!
As I mentioned last week, the first part of my water storage is cases of bottled water. Because these bottles are typically made of thinner plastic, we rotate them frequently.
The second part of my master water plan is 3-gallon heavy duty bottles. These are the types of bottles that you would expect to use in a water cooler (however, we don't). They are thick, sturdy plastic with a white cap. I have purchased them from both a Water & Ice type store, and I have found them at Basha's. I originally chose 3-gallon bottles as opposed to 5-gallon bottles because I can heft and handle one of these bottles. The 5-gallon bottles, however, are too unwieldy for me to handle comfortably.
We currently have 12 of these bottles that we rotate through. Whenever we get down to only having about half of them fully, Johnny will go to a water place and fill the empty ones up. You could easily use tap water to fill them up, too. To facilitate rotation, we keep a container in our refrigerator that has a spigot, and fill it up as needed using these 3-gallon bottles. Right now, because it is so hot outside, we are filling up the container nearly each evening, which equates to rotating our entire supply approximately every two weeks.
The two biggest challenges I have encountered with this part of our water storage is first, where to store the bottles, and second, keeping track of when they were filled. Both were easily solved. We store our bottles in the laundry room. When Johnny built me a wonderful set of shelves last year, I specifically designed them to be tall enough that two cases of bottle water will stack on top of each other underneath the bottom shelf. This is also the perfect height for the bottles. That solved our "where to put them" problem. As far as dating them, you can use a crayon to write the date on the white plastic cap. When you use that bottle, wipe the date off using a Magic Eraser sponge.
Next week, I'll write about the two parts of my water storage that deal with storing water for 6-months at a time. If you have any ideas or suggestions on what has worked for your families, please share them!
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Water - Introduction & Part 1
Just a reminder: The Food Storage 101 class is THIS SATURDAY!!!
There are so many important components to Food Storage. One that is often neglected is water. Speaking from my own experience, I put off having water as a part of my Food Storage for a while. I'm not sure why it was so hard for me, but it was. Maybe it was because I don't buy soda pop in 2-liter bottles, except at Christmas time, and then the bottles are already earmarked for our annual Day-After-Christmas Bottle Rocket contest. Maybe it was that the thought of actually having to drink the six-month-old water that has been sitting in the 55-gallon drum on my back porch suddenly made me feel not very thirsty. Maybe it was because the first time I tried storing water, one of the containers sprung a link, and I didn't know it until it had made a big mess. Whatever the reasons, water was my food storage hang-up. I just didn't understand how important water truly is. In the All is Safely Gathered In pamphlet that is published by the Church, water is listed as the second thing you need to focus on, right after your Three-Month Supply, and two steps ahead of building a Longer-Term Supply! Water is so important!
Now, my water storage system has four parts. I rotate each part on a regular basis. This accomplishes two things. First, it keeps the water tasting as good as possible. Second, if there is a problem, such as a leak, it is detected before a lot of damage can be done. A few years ago when I discovered my leaky water container, I called my mom to warn her, knowing that she had purchased the exact same product I had. Sure enough, hers had leaked, too. I was more fortunate than she was. Only one of my containers leaked, and though it made a mess, there was no damage to anything, as I caught it early. Evidently, two of her containers had been leaking, and for a longer time, causing damage to the drywall. This experience reiterated the importance of regularly rotating your water so that minor problems don't turn into larger ones.
The first part of my personal water storage system is very, very easy. It's simply plastic water bottles. Whenever the 24-pack cases of water go on sale (ideally for $1.99, but $2.50 is a decent price if I am running low), I buy them. I have a spot in my laundry room that is easily accessible, and that allows not only for easy rotation, but also lets me keep an eye on things so that I can spot a leak soon after it occurs. Because these bottles are thin, they are the most susceptible of the four methods I use for storing water to leaking. However, I have never had a single one leak, probably because I am careful about where and how I store them, and rotate them regularly. The individual bottles prove to be especially convenient in the summer for grabbing quickly on our way out the door. This helps a lot with rotation, too. My sister also uses this idea as a part of her water storage strategy, and has had a lot of success with it as well.
To make rotation easier, I use a permanent marker to mark each case of water with the expiration date that is stamped on the individual bottles. I write the month and year fairly largely on the outside plastic, and then I stack them so that the case with the nearest date gets used first. Whenever I buy new cases of water, I put them behind or underneath the older ones. This is the same method I use for all of my food storage. Taking the few extra seconds to do this as you putting things way really helps to make rotation easier.
In the coming weeks, I will be sharing the other parts of my water storage system. If you have any ideas or suggestions on what has worked for your family, please share them!
Additional information from the Church on storing water: Water
There are so many important components to Food Storage. One that is often neglected is water. Speaking from my own experience, I put off having water as a part of my Food Storage for a while. I'm not sure why it was so hard for me, but it was. Maybe it was because I don't buy soda pop in 2-liter bottles, except at Christmas time, and then the bottles are already earmarked for our annual Day-After-Christmas Bottle Rocket contest. Maybe it was that the thought of actually having to drink the six-month-old water that has been sitting in the 55-gallon drum on my back porch suddenly made me feel not very thirsty. Maybe it was because the first time I tried storing water, one of the containers sprung a link, and I didn't know it until it had made a big mess. Whatever the reasons, water was my food storage hang-up. I just didn't understand how important water truly is. In the All is Safely Gathered In pamphlet that is published by the Church, water is listed as the second thing you need to focus on, right after your Three-Month Supply, and two steps ahead of building a Longer-Term Supply! Water is so important!
Now, my water storage system has four parts. I rotate each part on a regular basis. This accomplishes two things. First, it keeps the water tasting as good as possible. Second, if there is a problem, such as a leak, it is detected before a lot of damage can be done. A few years ago when I discovered my leaky water container, I called my mom to warn her, knowing that she had purchased the exact same product I had. Sure enough, hers had leaked, too. I was more fortunate than she was. Only one of my containers leaked, and though it made a mess, there was no damage to anything, as I caught it early. Evidently, two of her containers had been leaking, and for a longer time, causing damage to the drywall. This experience reiterated the importance of regularly rotating your water so that minor problems don't turn into larger ones.
The first part of my personal water storage system is very, very easy. It's simply plastic water bottles. Whenever the 24-pack cases of water go on sale (ideally for $1.99, but $2.50 is a decent price if I am running low), I buy them. I have a spot in my laundry room that is easily accessible, and that allows not only for easy rotation, but also lets me keep an eye on things so that I can spot a leak soon after it occurs. Because these bottles are thin, they are the most susceptible of the four methods I use for storing water to leaking. However, I have never had a single one leak, probably because I am careful about where and how I store them, and rotate them regularly. The individual bottles prove to be especially convenient in the summer for grabbing quickly on our way out the door. This helps a lot with rotation, too. My sister also uses this idea as a part of her water storage strategy, and has had a lot of success with it as well.
To make rotation easier, I use a permanent marker to mark each case of water with the expiration date that is stamped on the individual bottles. I write the month and year fairly largely on the outside plastic, and then I stack them so that the case with the nearest date gets used first. Whenever I buy new cases of water, I put them behind or underneath the older ones. This is the same method I use for all of my food storage. Taking the few extra seconds to do this as you putting things way really helps to make rotation easier.
In the coming weeks, I will be sharing the other parts of my water storage system. If you have any ideas or suggestions on what has worked for your family, please share them!
Additional information from the Church on storing water: Water
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
5 Tips That Have Worked for Me
This is a list of hints and tips that I have found to be helpful as I have worked to create a Three-Month Supply for my family.
- At the very beginning, start by buying just one extra item during each grocery trip. It could be a box of spaghetti, a box of salt, or even a bag of shredded cheese to put in your freezer. The point is to be conscious of trying to build up your Three-Month Supply because it leads to the next step.
- Buy multiple items for your Three-Month Supply when they are on-sale. It doesn't take very much time to glance through the grocery ads each week. If you are really pressed for time, or find yourself at the grocery store without having looked at the ads, grab an ad right by the entrance of the store and just look at the front page. Stores will typically put their best sales on the front page of their weekly ad. When an item that your family likes goes on sale, instead of buying just one or two, buy four or five for the same price.
- If you have a freezer, don't forget that it can be used as part of your Three-Month and Longer-Term Supplies. Many of the meals that my family likes use shredded cheese. I probably could make the recipes without it, but I know that my family is much more likely to eat those meals if cheese is included. Therefore, I keep shredded cheese in my freezer.
- Be wise about what you store, and don't buy things, even on sale, that your family won't eat. No matter how inexpensive an item is, it is a waste of money if you end up having to throw it out because your family refuses to eat it.
- Preserve produce when possible. When you are able to grow your own fruits and vegetables, or to buy them for a great price, can or freeze the extra. For example, in January when my lemons were ready, I froze a lot of the lemon juice so that I can use it in recipes throughout the year. A few weeks ago, I was able to buy strawberries for $0.33 per pound. They were wonderful, and I made freezer jam out of several pounds and froze many more pounds. I am going to pick peaches this afternoon at my parents' house, and plan to make peach jam out of them. A great preserving website is the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
- Be prayerful about your food storage. You are working to keep a commandment, and you will be blessed!
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Storage Container Options
As we are talking about powdered milk, our Food Storage Item of the Month, it is the perfect time to discuss what options there are for containers to hold your food storage.
First, there is the original packaging. Many of the items that you will rotate regularly through your Three-Month Supply can be left in their original packages and containers. This includes things like dried pasta, cereal, and frozen vegetables. Typically, a "best by" date can be found on the outside of the packaging, and is useful in helping you to use up each product while it will still taste the best. It is always important to use up oldest items and ingredients first before opening a newer item, but it is especially necessary when using and rotating items that have been left in their original packaging. I recently discovered a package of frozen vegetables that had found it's way to the bottom of my chest freezer. It's best by date was six months previous and there was a very small hole in the bag. When I opened the package, it was full of ice and the vegetables were shriveled and dried out because they had lost all of their moisture. It was a reminder to me of the importance of rotating your food.
Next, food items can be repackaged using plastic wrap, zipper-top plastic bags, foil, Food-Saver type bags, or plastic containers. Again, these methods of packaging are more suited to items that will be rotated and used within a fairly short time frame, such as a part of your Three-Month Supply.
Thirdly, food products can be stored in glass or heavy-duty plastic containers. I am not referring to canning items - that is the next section. Using plastic or glass containers, buckets, or jars works well for items dry products that you use on a regular basis. For example, whenever I open one of my #10 cans from my Longer-Term Food Storage, I put it into a glass container so that I can see what is in there, and to keep the contents fresh while I use it up. A friend of mine does the same thing with clear, square, plastic containers. For items I use in larger quantities, such as sugar or flour, I keep them in labeled white buckets with a screw top lid. You can also use food-grade plastic buckets for storing your Longer-Term Supply, but you need to either treat them with nitrogen gas or use dry ice to displace the oxygen.
Fourth, canning food in glass containers is a great storage option. Using the Ward's pressure canner, you can bottle meats, beans, and vegetables. Always, however, make sure you use a tested recipe, and follow the directions to the letter. A great resource for canning recipes is the National Center for Home Food Preservation. They also offer a free online class that covers the basics of canning. Using a boiling water canner, you can bottle fruit and fruit products such as jams. Again, directions can be found on the NCHFP website.
Fifth, a mylar bag, also know as a "dry-pack pouch" is fabulous for packaging items for your food storage. The Ward now has a mylar bag sealer, and the pouches cost $0.35 from the Mesa Home Storage Center. (Remember, prices are subject to change as necessary.) The mylar bags hold more than a #10 can, and cost much less. They also can be stored flat, and therefore can fit in places that #10 can cannot. However, dry-pack pouches are not rodent-proof, and would need to be placed in a secondary container that is rodent-proof if rodents are a concern. You still need to use an oxygen packet with the mylar bags. To seal these bags, you must use a special, heavy-duty sealer called an impulse sealer. A vacuum packaging machine, such as the Food Saver, will not work. We are very, very fortunate to have an impulse sealer for the Ward. Please contact Rebecca Wilcox if you are interested in using it.
Lastly, #10 cans are the most common container used for Food Storage, especially for Longer-Term Supply items. The first Saturday of each month, we will have a ward canning day, and will have a #10 Can Sealer, as well as the Mylar Bag Impulse Sealer available to use. #10 cans and lids can be purchased at the Mesa Home Storage Center. The current price is $1.01 for the can and the metal lid. Remember, prices are subject to change as necessary.
Whatever storage containers you use, make sure you are regularly rotating your food storage, including your Longer-Term Supply in order to have the best quality and flavor possible.
First, there is the original packaging. Many of the items that you will rotate regularly through your Three-Month Supply can be left in their original packages and containers. This includes things like dried pasta, cereal, and frozen vegetables. Typically, a "best by" date can be found on the outside of the packaging, and is useful in helping you to use up each product while it will still taste the best. It is always important to use up oldest items and ingredients first before opening a newer item, but it is especially necessary when using and rotating items that have been left in their original packaging. I recently discovered a package of frozen vegetables that had found it's way to the bottom of my chest freezer. It's best by date was six months previous and there was a very small hole in the bag. When I opened the package, it was full of ice and the vegetables were shriveled and dried out because they had lost all of their moisture. It was a reminder to me of the importance of rotating your food.
Next, food items can be repackaged using plastic wrap, zipper-top plastic bags, foil, Food-Saver type bags, or plastic containers. Again, these methods of packaging are more suited to items that will be rotated and used within a fairly short time frame, such as a part of your Three-Month Supply.
Thirdly, food products can be stored in glass or heavy-duty plastic containers. I am not referring to canning items - that is the next section. Using plastic or glass containers, buckets, or jars works well for items dry products that you use on a regular basis. For example, whenever I open one of my #10 cans from my Longer-Term Food Storage, I put it into a glass container so that I can see what is in there, and to keep the contents fresh while I use it up. A friend of mine does the same thing with clear, square, plastic containers. For items I use in larger quantities, such as sugar or flour, I keep them in labeled white buckets with a screw top lid. You can also use food-grade plastic buckets for storing your Longer-Term Supply, but you need to either treat them with nitrogen gas or use dry ice to displace the oxygen.
Fourth, canning food in glass containers is a great storage option. Using the Ward's pressure canner, you can bottle meats, beans, and vegetables. Always, however, make sure you use a tested recipe, and follow the directions to the letter. A great resource for canning recipes is the National Center for Home Food Preservation. They also offer a free online class that covers the basics of canning. Using a boiling water canner, you can bottle fruit and fruit products such as jams. Again, directions can be found on the NCHFP website.
Fifth, a mylar bag, also know as a "dry-pack pouch" is fabulous for packaging items for your food storage. The Ward now has a mylar bag sealer, and the pouches cost $0.35 from the Mesa Home Storage Center. (Remember, prices are subject to change as necessary.) The mylar bags hold more than a #10 can, and cost much less. They also can be stored flat, and therefore can fit in places that #10 can cannot. However, dry-pack pouches are not rodent-proof, and would need to be placed in a secondary container that is rodent-proof if rodents are a concern. You still need to use an oxygen packet with the mylar bags. To seal these bags, you must use a special, heavy-duty sealer called an impulse sealer. A vacuum packaging machine, such as the Food Saver, will not work. We are very, very fortunate to have an impulse sealer for the Ward. Please contact Rebecca Wilcox if you are interested in using it.
Lastly, #10 cans are the most common container used for Food Storage, especially for Longer-Term Supply items. The first Saturday of each month, we will have a ward canning day, and will have a #10 Can Sealer, as well as the Mylar Bag Impulse Sealer available to use. #10 cans and lids can be purchased at the Mesa Home Storage Center. The current price is $1.01 for the can and the metal lid. Remember, prices are subject to change as necessary.
Whatever storage containers you use, make sure you are regularly rotating your food storage, including your Longer-Term Supply in order to have the best quality and flavor possible.
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
A Powdered Milk Primer
The Food Storage Item of the Month is powdered milk!
Did you know that there are several varieties and options for powdered milk? There is a choice between instant and non-instant, non-fat or low-fat, powdered or granulated, flavored or plain, or some combination of the above! One of the best sources I have found for ideas and information on using powdered milk is The Prudent Homemaker. She is not a fan of drinking powdered milk, and uses it for cooking and baking. Recently, a lady in Utah contacted most of the major distributors of powdered milk, and they donated cans of their products to be used as part of a large taste-test she conducted. You can read her results here.
The non-fat milk options are the most readily available. These have no fat in them, meaning that they are equivalent to "skim" milk, and are therefore more suitable for longer term storage than powdered milks that do have fat in them.
Instant Non-Fat Milk: Notice the lack of the word "powdered" in the name of this type of milk. It is not a powder, but instead more of a granule. It is by far the most widely available milk to purchase at the grocery store, Sam's Club, or Costco. The name-brand version is made by Carnation, but generic versions are available at just about any grocery store. It dissolves easily and without lumps in either hot or cold water with a ratio of 1/3 cup milk granules to 1 cup water.
Instant Non-Fat Powdered Milk: This is a true powder, and more difficult to find. The sources I have seen most often for it is Walton Feed or Provident Pantry. It readily dissolves in cold water at a ratio of 1/3 cup milk powder to 2 cups water.
Non-Instant Non-Fat Powdered Milk: This is the type of powdered milk that the Mesa Home Storage Center sells. It is more difficult to dissolve, and does best in warm water. Refrigerating it for several hours after mixing also helps. You mix it in a ratio of 3/4 cup powder to 4 cups of water. This is the type of powdered milk I use when making bread, without reconstituting it first.
Low-Fat Powdered Milk: This type of powdered milk has a shorter shelf-life than non-fat varieties due to the presence of fat in the powders. The brand that I have seen most often for low-fat types of powdered milk is Morning Moo's. Blue Chip Group (recently renamed Auguson Farms) that manufactures Morning Moo's also makes flavored varieties. Honeyville Farms also sells a low-fat powdered milk product. It is worth noting that most of the low-fat powdered milks are actually labeled "Low-fat Powdered Milk Alternative". This is because their ingredients use more than just milk, adding emulsifiers and other ingredients to create a better flavor and texture.
Sources and Additional Information:
Did you know that there are several varieties and options for powdered milk? There is a choice between instant and non-instant, non-fat or low-fat, powdered or granulated, flavored or plain, or some combination of the above! One of the best sources I have found for ideas and information on using powdered milk is The Prudent Homemaker. She is not a fan of drinking powdered milk, and uses it for cooking and baking. Recently, a lady in Utah contacted most of the major distributors of powdered milk, and they donated cans of their products to be used as part of a large taste-test she conducted. You can read her results here.
The non-fat milk options are the most readily available. These have no fat in them, meaning that they are equivalent to "skim" milk, and are therefore more suitable for longer term storage than powdered milks that do have fat in them.
Instant Non-Fat Milk: Notice the lack of the word "powdered" in the name of this type of milk. It is not a powder, but instead more of a granule. It is by far the most widely available milk to purchase at the grocery store, Sam's Club, or Costco. The name-brand version is made by Carnation, but generic versions are available at just about any grocery store. It dissolves easily and without lumps in either hot or cold water with a ratio of 1/3 cup milk granules to 1 cup water.
Instant Non-Fat Powdered Milk: This is a true powder, and more difficult to find. The sources I have seen most often for it is Walton Feed or Provident Pantry. It readily dissolves in cold water at a ratio of 1/3 cup milk powder to 2 cups water.
Non-Instant Non-Fat Powdered Milk: This is the type of powdered milk that the Mesa Home Storage Center sells. It is more difficult to dissolve, and does best in warm water. Refrigerating it for several hours after mixing also helps. You mix it in a ratio of 3/4 cup powder to 4 cups of water. This is the type of powdered milk I use when making bread, without reconstituting it first.
Low-Fat Powdered Milk: This type of powdered milk has a shorter shelf-life than non-fat varieties due to the presence of fat in the powders. The brand that I have seen most often for low-fat types of powdered milk is Morning Moo's. Blue Chip Group (recently renamed Auguson Farms) that manufactures Morning Moo's also makes flavored varieties. Honeyville Farms also sells a low-fat powdered milk product. It is worth noting that most of the low-fat powdered milks are actually labeled "Low-fat Powdered Milk Alternative". This is because their ingredients use more than just milk, adding emulsifiers and other ingredients to create a better flavor and texture.
Sources and Additional Information:
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Butter to Oil Conversion
Oil is an important component of food storage. It improves the flavor and texture of the things you cook, and greatly increases the number of recipes you can make with your food storage. However, some of my favorite recipes call for butter, and I wanted to find a conversion ratio so that I could substitute oil when necessary.
Last week, I decided I wanted to use olive oil in my bread instead of butter. So, I used 1 cup of oil instead of 1 1/2 cups butter. (My recipe makes several very large loaves per batch.) I figured that was a good ratio, and it wasn't until that evening that I looked on the internet and was surprised by exactly how close I was to the proper ratio! Here is a chart I found. It is specific to olive oil, but should also work fairly well for canola and vegetables oils. Basically, when changing from butter to oil, it is a 4 to 3 conversion, meaning that for 4 parts of butter, you only need to use 3 parts of oil, ie: 1/4 cup butter (which is 4 tablespoons) is equal to 3 Tbsp. oil, 1 cup of butter is equal to 3/4 cup of oil; 1 1/2 cups of butter is equal to 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. oil.
Remember, though, that this is for things like breads and muffins that are not entirely dependent on the butter for texture. Cookie recipes wouldn't work with this substitution because you have to cream together the butter and sugar in order to achieve the proper lift and texture in the final product.
Last week, I decided I wanted to use olive oil in my bread instead of butter. So, I used 1 cup of oil instead of 1 1/2 cups butter. (My recipe makes several very large loaves per batch.) I figured that was a good ratio, and it wasn't until that evening that I looked on the internet and was surprised by exactly how close I was to the proper ratio! Here is a chart I found. It is specific to olive oil, but should also work fairly well for canola and vegetables oils. Basically, when changing from butter to oil, it is a 4 to 3 conversion, meaning that for 4 parts of butter, you only need to use 3 parts of oil, ie: 1/4 cup butter (which is 4 tablespoons) is equal to 3 Tbsp. oil, 1 cup of butter is equal to 3/4 cup of oil; 1 1/2 cups of butter is equal to 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. oil.
Remember, though, that this is for things like breads and muffins that are not entirely dependent on the butter for texture. Cookie recipes wouldn't work with this substitution because you have to cream together the butter and sugar in order to achieve the proper lift and texture in the final product.
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